Collector sneakers, cashmere joggers and athleisure continue to permeate our clothing culture. Their corollary – the slow but sure disappearance of any form of formal elegance – suffocated the dress watch. However, casual chic has not made chic itself disappear, because after several years of reigning supreme, steel watches, titanium timepieces, diving models of all kinds, especially vintage – and in fact anything that can be worn with anything – make way for stylish watches. These tended to stay stored in their boxes, drawers or reels. Now is the time to bring them out, because the pendulum is already beginning to swing back.
Lange Perpetual Calendar 1 © A. Lange & Söhne
Simple or sophisticated
Just look at the latest generation of Calatrava timepieces. The true heart of Patek Philippe lies in an understated, slender and delicate aesthetic, crafted in gold and accompanied by highly sophisticated exterior finishes – a set of attributes perfectly exemplified in the new Reference 6119 models. The middle case is a long curve ending by sober two-stage lugs and the double-row studded bezel Clous de Paris requires particularly meticulous guilloché work. A. Lange & Söhne owes everything to this classicism and don’t be fooled by the asymmetrical arrangement of the dials of its Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar: they are a guarantee of eccentricity (literally and figuratively) embodying the most sophisticated elegance. . This piece is a true formal evening perpetual calendar. The same can almost be said for the Breitling Premier B09 Chronograph 40 in its rose gold version, a not at all sporty chronograph, even given its vintage style.
Calatrava Nails of Paris 6119R © Patek Philippe
It’s all in the details
In addition, a number of increasingly streamlined models continue to emerge. First of all, Omega offers a Power Reserve version of its Trésor Master Chronometer range, sober but not bare. The power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock creates a discreet cardinal point, echoing the small seconds and the inscriptions on the sparsely populated dial of applied gold baton indexes, creating a perceptible but refined presence. In the same vein, but in a completely different interpretation, this year Chopard presented its very first jumping hours watch. Located at 6 o’clock, this feature lends a tasteful tone to the LUC Quattro Spirit 25, further enhanced by its pink gold window matching the small case. The latter has a moderate thickness and rounded sides, ensuring a perfect fit on the wrist. The large LUC “Dauphine-fusée” hand has never played such an important role since it is the only one to move on the immaculate white enamel dial. Because there is indeed nothing more delicate than pure watchmaking, which involves taking even more meticulous care of the few details involved. This naturally leads to considering the Reverso Tribute, the most refined and refined version of this almost century-old classic which remains truly timeless, a sign of elegance in itself.
Reverso Tribute Small Seconds © Jaeger-LeCoultre
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