Returning to the IRL runway shows in September, you couldn’t fail to notice that there wasn’t just a new generation of designers in the spotlight, they were reaching out to a new consumer. Today’s fashionable youth reject binaries in favor of plurality, and they don’t seem interested in old guard status markers – or maybe a better way to put it is that they have assigned status to unknown things.
When a new cohort matures and becomes influential, it is a destabilizing experience for the older ones. Lil Nas X, GQMusician of the Year, put it this way in a recent Jeremy O. Harris cover profile: “There’s a new era of celebrity, and I don’t think a lot of people are comfortable with that. . But I think it’s great. I have the impression that it brings down the walls.
Guram Gvasalia also timed the shifts. Although it comes to the idea from its own angle, the new Vetements collection takes into account these generational and cultural changes. On a Zoom call from the company’s headquarters in Zurich, he was talking about Bitcoin millionaires and social media millionaires. “Fashion designers at the turn of the 20th century focused on the industrial tycoons who made money from oil, real estate, chocolate bars,” he said. “This collection pushes to redefine couture and know-how for the new era”, for the new luxury customer.
If you see something cynical about raffle draws and lotto card designs, you’re not in it. Indeed, there was a lot of piss going on here. “The Gvasalias” is printed in what looks like The simpsons font inside a t-shirt; it’s a nod to the Balenciaga spring 2022 show by Guram’s brother, Demna. Then there is the fact that all 72 looks except one feature a mask, a mask not unlike the one worn by Demna during this show and also at the Met Gala, where her famous date was accouté. in the same way. “The truth is, in today’s world dominated by social media and a sometimes toxic environment, you don’t have to be Kim Kardashian to need privacy in your life,” Guram explained. For the record, he added that masks have been part of Vetements’ lexicon for years.
Sibling dynamics aside, there have been some notable developments here, mostly involving Vetements signature tailoring. The opening look’s button-down, pants, jacket, and long coat are all made from the jersey typically used for t-shirts and hoodies, a post-containment innovation that addresses one’s conflicting cravings. dress up and stay comfortable. “You can throw them in your suitcase and start traveling again,” Gvasalia said. The team also experimented with ‘3D digital pattern modifications’ that give straight-cut jackets a couture hourglass shape. And they’ve designed puffer jackets and jeans with built-in zippers so wearers can tweak silhouettes as they see fit. Other looks layered oversized t-shirts on top of jackets and shirts, a counterintuitive idea that seemed distinctive nonetheless. That brings him back to the new generation, who have a weird way of making the counterintuitive suddenly seem right.