How will the pandemic change fashion? Look no further than Marina Moscone’s new line of resorts for a glimpse of the pent-up creativity and exuberance designers are unleashing this year. Like most of its collections, the resort town of Moscone opens up with a curvy fit – a signature – but where the fall 2020 onyx jacket reads minimal and luxurious, the chocolate suit is here with a flash. surprisingly tangy chartreuse silk. Take a closer look and you’ll notice that the pleated top has a naughty detail: a built-in choker that hangs around the neck.
Things only get bolder from there: a tapestry coat scribbled with mushrooms, flowers, and snakes is topped with fluffy green Mongolian lamb; black tunics and flares are encrusted with giant lightning bolts; sporty knit sets are fitted with XXL metal belts wrapped in upcycled mink; and a bleach-splashed satin gown is finished with cherry silk twisted through an eyelet hem. It’s an idiosyncratic detail you won’t see elsewhere a Moscone has likely found through her hands-on, cutting-edge process. These bleach stains were the result of trial and error; the bleaching of indigo silk made it orange, for example, while a peridot version was accompanied by touches of saffron.
Moscone’s moodboard was a journey: photos of David Bowie and Shelley Duvall mixed with oxidized steel works by Carol Bode, surreal paintings by Giuseppe Archimboldo of human heads made of mushrooms and fruits (suffice to say that he was not a painter that this writer learned in the Renaissance art course), and Sarah Lucas’ striking sculptures of twisted female bodies. Lucas’s eye for color inspired Moscone’s high-contrast palette, while her provocative approach to sexuality and culture reinforced the designer’s risk-taking side. If there is to be a time for mushroom coats and dip dyed neon lights, right now?
Anyone who considered Moscone to be a “minimalist” designer will certainly do a double take here. In the press release, she went so far as to qualify the resort as an “aesthetic reset” marking a new chapter of “impetus and experimentation” for the brand. That’s not to say that she has completely abandoned her simpler tastes; taken apart, these pleated suits and ensembles could be worn anywhere, any way. Later this year, Moscone will also feature an off-season capsule of best-selling essentials on its website, including hourglass blazers, cropped pants and poplin button-down shirts. This should give her even more space to scare in future collections, hopefully with a newly emboldened client to match.