For those who remember pre-pandemic fashion with nostalgia, seeing Jeff Goldblum and nine other actors such as Kyle MacLachlan and Asa Butterfield walk down the Prada catwalk instantly sparked a sweet memory: the iconic fall 2012 show from the brand that saw Willem Dafoe, Gary Oldman and Adrien Brody marching to cheers.
At the time, the A-list cast sported a severe cut reminiscent of vintage military attire, as the collection was a riff on powerful men and investigating how fashion can telegraph authority. Ten years later and with Raf Simons as co-creative director with Miuccia Prada, the fashion house’s object of exploration has shifted towards empowerment.
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In addition to the changes that have taken place over the past decade, the conversation between these two strong creative voices has sparked a new vision of “clothes that make people feel important”, as Prada put it – more pragmatic, everyday and pointing to the future rather than referring to the past.
Models emerged from a futuristic tunnel before entering the Fondazione Prada’s Deposito room, designed this season by architecture studio AMO to resemble a movie theater.
Marching decisively before the audience, these figures seemed mighty in their combination of sartorial staples and working clothes – both elevated and endowed with equal importance and dignity.
“The collection celebrates the idea of working – in all different spheres and meanings,” said Prada. “It’s a practical, everyday thing. But here, you are formally important. You are not casual. And through these clothes, we emphasize that everything a human being does is important. Every aspect of reality can be elegant and dignified,” she added..
This is how the double-breasted coats and blazers received a couture treatment with armbands filled with technical mohair, charming hourglass silhouettes that enhance the proportions of the shoulders and hidden buttons that accentuate the polished effect.
These elements also influenced utilitarian outerwear and the evolution of last season’s bomber jacket, here rendered in a longer version with a waist-cinching belt.
Along the same lines, designers have improved lightweight overalls and workwear pieces, crafting them from technical silk fabrics and sleek leather. They further highlight them through color, ranging from delicate pastel tones to bold hues of tangerine and canary yellow.
“They replace the traditional historical shirt/tie/bow tie and give a new energy and reality, a more youthful attitude too,” Simons said.
Cue young actors Thomas Brodie-Sangster, Louis Partridge, Ashton Sanders, Damson Idris, Tom Mercier, Jaden Michael and Filippo Scotti, wisely chosen to be included in this updated cast and model the duo’s latest take on the classics of the wardrobe.
It remains to be seen whether men will return to offices covered in furry details, or whether mechanics will repair cars in Prada silks, but with these new faces – and Tom Holland as the star of his latest advertising campaign – the triangular logo brand looks set to go further infiltrating the movie industry.
Launch the gallery: Prada Men Fall 2022