If there has been one most notable complication among the many new watches introduced throughout 2021 so far, it is clearly the Perpetual calendar. First introduced in a wristwatch in 1925 by Patek Philippe, a perpetual calendar movement can display the date, day, month and year with precise precision and even take leap years into account; many models also include other complications, such as a moon phase or power reserve indicator, and virtually all watches with this type of movement are produced with the most sophisticated and well-to-do customers in mind.

Since its inception, the perpetual calendar perpetual calendar, or QP) has occupied a prominent place in the world of watchmaking, both for the status associated with the complication and for the technical prowess required for its manufacture. Today, in a time of continued growth in the luxury side of the watch market, watch brands are actively competing to produce watches with these unusual complications in a way that sets them apart from their peers. The year 2021 has seen many examples of this mission statement. You will find five of them below.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo perpetual calendar

One of the most remarkable releases of the year, perpetual calendar or otherwise, is the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar, which sets the brand’s seventh watch thinness record since 2014.

Like previous Octo Finissimo models, the watch features an ultra-thin 40mm case, just 5.8mm thick, available in monochromatic titanium or luxurious platinum. The overall look of the watch is quite distinct, with its perpetual calendar dial presented completely analogically, including with a retrograde date indicator and parallel leap year pointer at the top and bottom of the dial, respectively.

The record perpetual calendar is powered by the Bulgari BVL 305 caliber, a finely decorated micro-rotor mechanism visible through a sapphire display caseback. Like the watch it powers, the movement is also incredibly thin, at just 2.75mm thick. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo perpetual calendar goes on sale later this year, with the titanium edition priced at $ 59,000 and the platinum version priced at $ 89,000.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar

Speaking of slimline watches, another House known for having released perpetual calendars in this style is Vacheron Constantin, who updated their popular Overseas line with two perpetual calendar models in white gold, one a breathtaking skeleton, called the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar.

Both watches are similar to previous iterations released by Vacheron, including a rose gold version released last year. On the wrist, the 41.5mm diameter white gold case fits extremely closely with its superbly thin 8.1mm (for a perpetual calendar), its meticulously finished surfaces merging with those of the integrated bracelet that secures it.

The dial configurations of each model are visibly similar although one is skeletonized and the other solid blue. Both use displays for an analog date at 3 o’clock; a moon phase at 6 o’clock; an analogue day indicator at 9 o’clock; and an unusual, built-in four-year 12-hour monthly counter that fully accommodates leap years without the additional leap year indicator seen on most other perpetual calendars.

The skeleton version of the watch is powered by the Vacheron Constantin 1120 QPSQ / 1 caliber, itself a modified version of the manufacturing Caliber 1120 QP / 1 behind the full dial. Both movements have a 40-hour power reserve, beaten at a frequency of 19,800 vibrations per hour, and among their beautiful finishes, a 22-carat gold skeleton oscillating weight swinging around the outer rim.

The new Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton is priced at $ 130,000, with the non-skeleton version significantly under $ 97,000, with each set expected to be available through select channels later this year.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5236P-001 in-line perpetual calendar

Third on our list is the latest perpetual calendar offering from Patek Philippe, new Ref. 5236P-001 in-line perpetual calendar. The watch was somewhat overshadowed by the release of the attention-grabbing green-dial Nautilus, but the 5236P-001 on its own shines with the very new calendar indication it offers.

The watch is from the classically elegant Calatrava collection and is notable for being Patek’s first wristwatch with an “in-line” calendar display. This means that it displays the day, date and month on a single line in a long horizontal opening under 12 o’clock. It is a configuration that Patek Philippe has used throughout its history in pocket watches, but never before on a wristwatch, dating from its first revolutionary creation in 1925.

The unusual configuration of the watch face is made possible by the Patek Philippe caliber 31-260 PS QL, a reworked version of the caliber 31-260 REG QA from 2011, with the “PS” for “Small second” and “QL” for “Perpetual calendar online”, or perpetual calendar online. The internal mechanism is wound via a platinum microrotor, exquisitely finished and visible via a sapphire crystal caseback, and has a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and a power reserve of 48 hours.

The Patek Philippe Ref. The online perpetual calendar 5236P-001 comes on a navy blue alligator strap with a platinum folding clasp and is priced at $ 130,108 in the United States.

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 perpetual calendar

Twenty years ago A. Lange & Söhne launched its first perpetual calendar, but it was only this year that the Saxon watchmaker brought the complication to its flagship Lange 1 collection, unveiling the aptly named Perpetual Calendar Lange 1.

The new watch takes the classic case and off-center aesthetic of the Lange 1 and applies it to a perpetual calendar. Its 41.9 mm diameter, 12.1 mm thick case in 18k rose gold or white gold frames a slate gray or rose gold dial, the latter being produced in a limited series of only 150 editions.

The dial maintains a classic Lange 1 look even with the addition of its off-center perpetual calendar displays – the most notable of which is the outer rotating month indicator, indicated by a small arrow at the bottom of the dial, with an indicator of leap year above. A retrograde day pointer is located towards the traditional 9 o’clock position and a large “oversized” double date window is located towards the traditional 11 o’clock position.

The watch, behind a sapphire crystal case-back, powers the watch, the 67th movement developed in-house by A. Lange & Söhne, the caliber L021.3. The automatic caliber is based on the original L021.1 first used in the Lange 1 Daymatic, and as this caliber is visible with its distinctly Saxon high quality watchmaking embellishments including Glashütte ribs on untreated German silver plates and bridges, thermally blued screws and hand engraving on the rooster.

The rose gold edition of the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 perpetual calendar will retail for $ 104,500, while the 150-piece white gold limited edition is priced at $ 116,000.

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch with perpetual calendar blue dial

To complete our list, one of the most surprisingly popular releases of 2021 to date, IWC now-production-standard Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Blue Dial.

The new watch, launched as part of the Watches & Wonders 2021 virtual event, represents the first time the Schaffhausen-based brand has added a standard production version of its perpetual calendar to the flagship Big Pilot’s Watch series. The model was accompanied by a limited edition “Mojave Desert” Top Gun watch (below).

The blue dial watches feature a classic 46.2mm brushed steel case typical of the Big Pilot’s Watch collection with an oversized diamond-style crown and secured to the wrist by a riveted flieger-style leather strap. Under the sapphire crystal, the shiny sunshine blue dial gives rise to a very legible perpetual calendar configuration, all designed according to the classic codes of the Big Pilot style.

The IWC 52615 self-winding caliber beats inside the watch; its lack of a distinct leap year indication keeps the face relatively clean and legible. As for its specifications, the in-house developed movement contains 54 jewels, beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and maintains a power reserve of seven days (or 168 hours); it is visible with its beautiful finish behind a sapphire crystal case back.

Notably, the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Blue Dial is one of the most relatively profitable perpetual calendars on the market today, priced at $ 29,900, nearly $ 30,000 less than the second cheapest watch of this year. list, the Bulgari in titanium.

Do you like lists like these? Check out our watchlist focused on another rare complication, the altimeter, here!



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